Watches & Wonders 2025 was, in some ways, the largest event ever. The number of visitors increased by 12% to 55,000 from the previous year, and more annoyingly, hotel room-nights increased by 17% to 43,000, which may help to explain why lodging costs are rising annually (albeit thankfully still far from Basel’s extortion). 

However, on other metrics, I am certain It was a bad year for Watches & Wonders (W&W). Retailers’ orders for new timepieces are undoubtedly lower than they were a year ago. Even before American tariffs were announced midway through the fair, there was a general sense of unease. However, as is frequently the case, most executives expect their brand will outperform because it is superior, even though they admit a slowdown.  

Big And Small Brands   

The level of innovation at major brands in contrast to independent watchmakers is one of the most intriguing trends this year. The F.P. Journe FFC from two years ago is one of the all-time greats; historically, indies have tended to have the more noteworthy productions, but this year was different.

The Rolex Land-Dweller and the Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication were the two finest W&W season debuts from major brands (or at least an established brand owned by a large group). The Land Dweller’s cal. 7135 combines an astounding amount of improvements, while the Solaria is the most intricate wristwatch ever created. Crucially, it earned the distinction thanks to a skilfully designed movement that maintains its compact size.  

At 45 mm by 14.99 mm high, the Solaria is perhaps the most wearable “ultra” grand complication 

The G.F.J., a time only wristwatch with a reconstructed cal. 135 observatory chronometer movement, is one example of how independent watchmaking joined the trend. Independent watchmaking, on the other hand, was all about the flavour of the day, which is a time only watch with a highly decorated movement, usually without a dial and instead the mechanics exposed on the face.  

The movement inside the Zenith G.F.J. is essentially a replica of the cal. 135, with a few improvements 

Although independent watchmakers used to frequently do their own thing, their success has been greatly attributed to their understanding of contemporary tastes. In the hopes that the watchmaker will become the next Francois Paul Journe, many aficionados are willing to deposit money for deliveries several years in the future, demonstrating the tremendous demand these independent watchmakers possess. Crucially, though, a few newcomers showed out in this field, such as AHCI candidate Dann Phimphrachanh, who worked with Raul Pages at Parmigiani. His art is excellent and has potential even though it is still in three hand format.  

Watches… 

The Rolex Land-Dweller is unquestionably the most significant watch debut of 2025. Its cal. 7135 inside which lacks a natural escapement makes it significant, not the band or its style. Our review of the watch and its movement contains all the information you need to understand why it is revolutionary. In my opinion, the Land-Dweller in Rolesor is a simple purchase; nevertheless, the platinum is the best option but takes a significant financial investment. The Lange Minute Repeater Perpetual is less inventive yet perfectly represents its creator. The Minute Repeater Perpetual, which is essentially a hybrid of the Langematik Perpetual and Richard Lange repeater, is made with the superb craftsmanship that distinguishes Lange timepieces.